TUESDAY/WEDNESDAY,
OCTOBER 16-17
0:00 - 0:19
In this tour we'll see the areas in Galilee, Upper Jordan and Golan you'll be visiting
over two days. We'll even slip in a flight to the top of Mt. Hermon and Damascus.
0:20 - 0:39
During Jesus' ministry here along the Sea of Galilee, Tiberias was a pagan city as was
much of the area on the east side of the lake. The area from the plain of Gennesaret to
Bethsaida was solidly Jewish.
0:40 - 0:59
We'll go to the double-topped volcanic hill, Horns of Hattin, west of Tiberias. Here, on
July 4, 1187, the Crusader army was suffering from thirst and summer heat in sight of the
Sea of Galilee, with the Muslim army of Saladin blocking their way to water. They were
defeated in one of the most significant losses for the Crusaders.
The view is toward the southwest with Mt. Tabor in the distance. Tabor is an easily
identified landmark you can use to orient yourself.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Hattin
1:00 - 1:19
Looking northeast toward Hattin we see Mt. Arbel, the V-shaped cleft of the Valley of the
Robbers and the Plain of Gennesaret in the distance.
1:20 - 1:39
Pause the flight -- there's a lot happening here.
We've swung around to the north side of Mt. Arbel. Before Herod was Herod the Great, he
clawed his way to the kingship. We know from the Bible that the House of Herod was
despised by religious Jews. Herod himself had ordered the deaths of baby boys following
the birth of Jesus and had for decades fought Jewish zealots. Here, at Arbel, zealots
(Herod considered them robbers) and their families had taken up residence in caves on the
cliff face. Herod lowered soldiers, equipped with long-handled hooks, in baskets to the
mouths of the caves to pull the Jews out to their deaths. Many jumped rather than be taken
by Herod's forces. That incident is why that V-shaped cleft is called Valley of the
Robbers.
Below Arbel is Magdala, also known as Tarichae. It was the home of Mary Magdalene and the
site of the First Century synagogue that Jesus almost certainly attended. The Magdala
Stone, discovered about 10 years ago, depicts the oldest carved image of the Second
Temple's seven-branched menorah ever found.
http://www.magdala.org/
Tarichae means "pickling" and refers to the fish-salting industry this place was
famous for. This was a center for preserving fish, especially for export throughout the
Mediterranean. The Romans used a salty, fermented fish sauce called garum, similar to the
Vietnamese nuoc mam, and, according to the historian Strabo, that from Magdala was
considered among the best. This site would have been where fishermen sold their catch. The
disciples, after casting their nets on the other side at Jesus command, could well have
come her to unload their boat.
Speaking of boats ... about 32 years ago when the level of the lake was low due to
drought, a first-century fishing boat was found in the mud between Magdala and the kibbutz
Ginosar. The fragile craft was carefully extracted from the mud and soaked in a chemical
bath to kill any destructive organisms and to plasticize the easily crumbled wood. It was
dubbed the Jesus boat. It is now in a museum at Ginosar.
Statistically, however, it's more likely its one of the hundreds of boats the Jews
launched when fighting the Roman general -- and future emperor -- Titus, son of Vespasian,
in a sea battle in A.D. 67. Titus' army overran Magdala and survivors took to the sea. The
Romans pursued and slaughtered them. Josephus records the lake turned red and 6,500 died.
Those who survived were sent as slaves to Nero to dig a canal through the Isthmus of
Corinth.
1:40 - 1:59
The Plain of Gennesaret -- Gennesaret is the Greek form of the Hebrew Chinnereth (or
Kinneret). Both are related to the Hebrew word for harp or lyre, Kinnor. The kinnor-shaped
Sea of Galilee is still called Kinneret by Israelis.
It was agriculturally rich and, where streams emptied into the sea, ideal fishing grounds.
Josephus describes this fertile area as "the ambition of nature":
"The country also that lies over against this lake has the same name of
Gennesareth. Its nature is wonderful as well as its beauty -- its soil is so fruitful that
all sorts of trees can grow upon it, and the inhabitants accordingly plant all sorts of
trees there, for the temper of the air is so well mixed, that it agrees very well with
those several sorts.
"Walnuts, particularly, which require the coldest air, flourish there in vast plenty.
There are palm trees also, which grow best in hot air -- fig trees also and olives grow
near them, which yet require an air that is more temperate.
"One may call this place the ambition of nature, where it forces those plants that
are naturally enemies to one another to agree together. It is a happy contention of the
seasons, as if every one of them laid claim to this country, for it not only nourishes
different sorts of autumnal fruit beyond men's expectation, but preserves them a great
while. It supplies men with the principal fruits, with grapes and figs continually, during
ten months of the year and the rest of the fruits as they become ripe together through the
whole year
'Besides the good temperature of the air, it is also watered from a most fertile fountain.
The people of the country call it Capharnaum (Capernaum). Some have thought it to be a
vein of the Nile, because it produces the Coracin fish as well as that lake does which is
near to Alexandria. The length of this country extends itself along the banks of this lake
that bears the same name for thirty furlongs, and is in breadth twenty, And this is the
nature of that place." -- The Jewish War 3:516-521
The Coracin fish, also know as St. Peter's fish, is the tilapia we're all familiar with.
2:00 - 2:19
The road were traveling was part of the International Highway that went from Egypt to
Mesopotamia. It leaves the shore here at Tabgha, climbing to the Upper Jordan Valley or
Huleh Basin. Just above Tabgha is the Mount of Beatitudes. It was a high-traffic area that
Jesus ministered in.
2:20 - 2:39
The Mount of Beatitudes was close to Capernaum. Bethsaida can be seen in the distance on
the delta at the north end of the sea.
When visiting the Mount of Beatitudes, look back at Arbel. From here it looks as though it
has pulled away from the surrounding hills and could tumble into the sea at any moment.
Look across the lake to the prominant hill behind the kibbutz of En Gev. That is the site
of Hippos, a pagan city of the Decapolis. For those sitting on the hillside listening to
Jesus teach, Hippos was the city on the hill that cannot be hidden. Just a little faith
and Arbel -- already slipping -- could be cast in the sea. I'm confident those natural
features -- and perhaps others -- caught the eyes of the crowd that day.
At the shoreline, is the Cove of the Sower. The bowl-shaped hillside carries the voice of
a speaker on the shore far up so he can be heard quite easily at a distance. The acoustics
would probably be even better if the speaker was in a boat just off shore.
Listen for yourself: https://www.bibleplaces.com/coveofsower/
2:40 - 2:59
Capernaum -- Kafar Nahum ... Village of Nahum -- was the town in which Jesus resided.
There's a lot to see here that your guide will explain. You may even take one of the
"Jesus boats" out on the sea from the pier that is near the site.
3:00 - 3:19
Chorazin is located above Capernaum. The synagogue here has a seat of Moses in it. Jesus
pronounced woe over Chorazin, Capernaum and Bethsaida for their lack of repentance.
3:20 - 3:39
Let's return to the ascent to the Upper Jordan.
The hill we're climbing and gaining about 2,000 feet in elevation is the Rosh Pinna Sill.
Rosh Pinna was settled in the 19th century by Romanian Jews and the name means
"cornerstone." Sill refers to the layers of volcanic rock that formed the dam
separating the Upper Jordan from the Lower Jordan.
3:40 - 3:59
Here we can see the Huleh Basin, a lake and swamp 18 by 5 miles in size at the time of
Jesus, extending from the sill to Dan in the north. When we hear of the Jews returning to
Israel and reclaiming the land, it is the swamps of the Huleh Basin that are meant. And
consider the prevalence of diseases like malaria here during the time of Jesus. Many who
came for healing were likely affected. In the foreground at the top of the mountain is the
city of Safed, the center of Jewish mysticism, kabbalah.
4:00 - 4:19
Looking south across the sill toward the Sea of Galilee we can see the path of the Upper
Jordan River as it leaves the Huleh Basin on a steep descent.
4:20 - 4:39
West of Rosh Pinna is a Jewish family that can trace their occupation of the same piece of
land back to the time of the Second Temple. In the distance, those high mountains are part
of Upper Galilee.
4:40 - 4:59
Here where the International Highway reached the shores of the lake that once filled this
basin is Hazor, the once-chief city of the Canaanites. It led a coalition of 31 kings
against Joshua. The city was taken by Joshua. During the period of the Judges, its king
sent his hundreds of chariots south to the Jezreel Valley to fight against Deborah and
Barack. The large flat area adjacent to the built-up portion of the city is thought to be
where he kept all those chariots and horses. Solomon, we are told, built up Gezer, Megiddo
and Hazor. All three have distinctive gates attributed to Solomon. It occupied a very
strategic position.
5:00 - 5:19
The Naptali Ridge runs along the western side of the Huleh Basin. Because of the
swampiness, the road was forced to hug the edge of the ridge. A small plateau at the top
of the ridge was the site of Kadesh Naphtali -- one of the cities of refuge. The border
with Lebanon approaches the ridge edge for much of its length.
5:20 - 5:39
Near the north end of the basin, is Abel-beth-maacah. 2 Samuel 20 tells how Joab, David's
general, pursued one of David's enemies here. An interesting story.
5:40 - 5:59
Ijon was one of the northernmost cities in Israel and one of the first to suffer from the
invasions of the Syrians, Assyrians, Babylonians and others.
6:00 - 6:39
We've arrived at Dan. From here to Eilat is about the same distance as from Sacramento to
Bakersfield.
Dan was formerly known as Laish. It was renamed when the tribe of Dan left its allotment
on the coast (at Ben Gurion Airport) and came here. Prior to that, Abram had pursued the
captors of Lot to this point where he split his force in two, sending one on up the valley
and the other around the east side of Mt. Hermon. When the kingdom split, the Northern
Kingdom under Jeroboam established a high place for worship of a calf idol here. You will
see Jeroboam's highplace. Adjacent to the tell is a large spring that in the late '80s
accounted for 1/8 of Israel's fresh water.
6:40 - 6:59
Close by is Caesarea Philippi, also known as Paneas (for the god Pan) or Baneas. One of
the sources of the Jordan flow out of a cave at the base of Mt Hermon. We're told Jesus
and his disciples were in the region of Caesarea Philippi when he asked his disciples who
men said he was and Peter answered, You are the Messiah, the Son of the Living God.
Whether this particular spot is intended is a matter for debate. It would take too long to
explain at this point, but Psalms 42 and 43 appear to be set here in the Paneas-Dan area.
It's a good one to read onsite.
Following the ridge above Paneas leads to Nimrud Castle, another crusader-era
fortification.
7:00 - 7:19
We're atop the Golan Heights at Birkat Ram, a round lake with neither inlet or outlet.
According to the rabbis, this was one of the places where the springs of the deep burst
forth bringing the worldwide flood recorded in Genesis.
7:20 - 7:39
Okay, we're about to do something your guide can only dream of -- we're going almost to
the top of 9,000+ foot Mt. Hermon -- also known, the Bible tells us, as Sirion and Senir,
then we'll drop down on Syrian President Bashar Assad's palace in Damascus.
7:40 - 7:59
As we swing around, we see the Lebanon Mountains on the left, the Anti-Lebanons (which
include Hermon) on the right and the Beqa Valley in between.
8:00 - 8:19
Mt. Hermon has some snow year around.
8:20 - 8:39
The president's residence sits above the city of Damascus.
The city is ancient and ideally situated. Rivers fed by melted snow flow out onto the flat
area irrigating the rich volcanic soils. It sits where the Kings Highway and the
International Highway converge, a formula for wealth (and invasions).
8:40 - 8:59
This view looking west across Damascus shows just how close Syria and Israel are. I have
explored the hills off to the right of this image using Google Earth and counted as many
as a dozen SCUD missiles on trucks. As the hills have numerous tunnels, Syria's arsenal of
hidden missiles and chemical weapons is vast. A SCUD launched from here or the Beqa Valley
would travel at Mach 5, falling on Tel Aviv in less than three minutes.
In the Bible, the various Syrian kingdoms also threatened Israel -- with chariots.
9:00 - 9:19
Sweeping back to the road we're traveling on the Golan Heights, recall that it was
somewhere out there that Saul of Tarsus, on his way to Damascus to persecute Christians,
was struck down and converted.
9:20 - 9:39
Ben Tal and the Valley of Tears is the site of heavy fighting in the 1973 Yom Kippur War.
Israel, vastly outnumbered, experienced an outcome as miraculous as any battle described
in the Bible. Note the smooth topography -- this is Old Testament chariot country and
modern tank country.
9:40 - 9:59
The resulting border from that conflict is just beyond the ridge adjacent to the road.
From here I'm making assumptions about the way the guide will choose to return to
Tiberias.
10:00 - 10:19
Occupation of the Golan Heights goes way back before Abraham. Here at Gilgal Refaim is the
prehistoric Stonehenge of Golan. Look closely as you drive the Golan and you may see other
smaller prehistoric structures called dolmans.
https://www.israel21c.org/israels-ancient-and-mysterious-stonehenge/
10:20 - 10:39
Gamla, the Masada of the Golan. Most people know the story of Masada down by the Dead Sea
and its defenders choosing to take their own lives rather than submitting to Rome. But
before Masada, there was Gamla. Its name means camel, appropriate for the hump of a hill
the city was built on in a steep canyon that leads to the north end of the Sea of Galilee.
In A.D. 66, 55,000 Roman troops came against the city and took heavy losses before
breaching the wall. Thousands of Jews jumped to their deaths rather than surrender. King
Agrippa II, before whom the Apostle Paul testified of Christ, is also part of the story
here. It's ruins were not discovered until after the 1967 war and the finds matched
Josephus' first century description almost perfectly.
https://www.timesofisrael.com/gamla-the-camel-backed-mountain/
10:40 - 11:19
Kursi is the site of Jesus' healing the demoniac man and sending his demons into a herd of
pigs. The ruins of the Byzantine church, destroyed by the Persians in around the 8th
Century, are here. The most likely candidate site for the pigs running into the sea is
probably not exactly like most of us imagine it.
11:20 - 11:39
En Gev kibbutz sits below the site of the Decapolis city of Hippos. It was a city on a
hill that could not be hidden. Note the cliffs of the Golan -- before the 1967 war, Syrian
artillary positions were along the top on the edge of the plateau. Firing on the Jewish
settlement below was not an uncommon occurance.
11:40 - 11:59
Atop the plateau, the site of Fiq still preserves the name Aphek where a battle occured
between King Ahab of Israel and the Aramean King Ben-Hadad. The previous year, Ben-Hadad
had laid seige to Ahab's city of Samaria and been defeated. His officials explained that
he lost because Israel's God was a God of the hills, whereas the Arameans' gods were gods
of the plains. All that was needed was to draw Israel into battle on a favorable
battlefield. The following spring it happened here at Aphek and is recorded in 2 Kings 20.
Spoiler alert: Israel's God had their backs on the plains too.
12:00 - 12:19
Israeli spy Eli Cohen, who had infiltrated the highest levels of Syrian military
intelligence, made an official visit to this plateau in the foreground in the early 1960s.
He visited the pillboxes from which the Syrian soldiers lobbed artillery shells on the
Jews living on the shore below. Hearing the soldiers complain of the heat, he made an
official recommendation that trees be planted by the military sites to provide shade. The
recommendation was accepted. Those trees grew and were visible across the sea. When the
Six Day War broke out in 1967, the Israeli military already knew the location of every
military installation on the edge of the plateau, thanks to those trees. Their coordinates
had already been dialed in. Cohen, who was discovered as a spy by the Syrians and executed
in 1965, did not live to see what he had accomplished.
12:20 - 12:59
Two sites compete for the possible location of Bethsaida where three of Jesus disciples
were from. Josephus tells us Bethsaida was renamed Julius and his description best fits
the inland site. But it's a mile or more to the water -- a long way for fisherman to walk
each day to work. Bethsaida means House of the Fisherman. The more coastal candidate has
been suggested as a second Bethsaida used by fisherman.
13:00 - 13:20
Back to Tiberias.